Bar Tottis, Sydney CBD
Credit: Steven Woodburn
Anthony Huckstep
The younger sibling to the Bondi smash hit, the new Bar Totti’s brings great-value snacks, comehither cocktails and Italian brio to Sydney’s CBD. We say bravo.
Of all the Merivale venues to open in recent years – and there have been a few – this new CBD sibling to Totti’s in Bondi has the broadest appeal. It could be the casual bar-cum-trattoria atmosphere, the grazing-style menu, lively staff, or the food of chef Mike Eggert (of Pinbone fame). I’d say it’s weighted heavily on this last.
Part of the Merivale fiefdom on George Street, Bar Totti’s is split into two distinct spaces. One is dominated by a horseshoe bar and hosts DJs, while the other, with its whitewashed walls and white paper-clad tables bringing the trattoria vibe, is the main dining area.
The Italian-accented wine list is nicely chosen to cover taste and pocket, though when charged $29 for a glass (albeit a 250ml glass – they come in regular and large), I’d like it poured at the table. Nevertheless, the La Raia Gavi Cortese from Piedmont is spot-on with Eggert’s food. Cocktails, meanwhile, are largely classics from the boot.
Bar Totti's, Sydney CBD
Eggert’s tactic of applying simple yet precise technique to top produce manifests in a damn delicious iteration of Italian on a carte simply divided into antipasti and snacks from the grill.
Lightly cured sardines in a puddle of olive oil with discs of bracing lemon are a joy. Sliced sweet raw scallops are lifted to the next level with a flattering shower of orange zest and mint. The wood-fired bread arrives as a charred puffball that pleasingly deflates when pierced. It’s a must, best paired with oozing baked tomino cheese topped with confit garlic and rosemary.
On the grilled side, salsa verde and pistachios add vibrant spark to tender beef tongue, while butterflied garfish comes with skin blistered crisp and garnished with parsley and capers.
Fans will be thrilled the tiramisù has made the trek from Bondi, as has the Neapolitan ice-cream sandwich.
So simple, so satisfying and such great-value snacking. Bar Totti’s strikes a blow for a more fun Sydney.